Eastern Mojave Vegetation Tom Schweich
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Eastern Mojave Vegetation | Field Notes (Continued) |
| Tom Schweich |
Topics in this Article: 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2008 Tour de Swertia albomarginata Mono Lake, August 2008 Contents Literature Cited | When I first read the field
notes of Annie Alexander and Louise Kellogg, I was fascinated by the descriptions they wrote about the places they went and the plants and animals they found there. By publishing my field notes on the Internet I hope to follow a little bit in their tradition.
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| 2008 Tour de Swertia albomarginataTuesday, May 27th |
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Left home on Tuesday May 27th, bound for the Eastern Mojave. Stopped for gas at Avenal, lunch in Bakersfield, gas at Kramer Junction, again at Valley Wells.
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Cross-In-A-Box in May, 2008 Other Articles: Kessler Springs Road: at Veterans Cross | On the way in to Mojave National Preserve I stopped for my annual photo of the "Cross in a Box" (#9). A cross was installed on this rock in the 1930s as a memorial to veterans, long before this area became a park. In the 1990s a disgruntled Park Service employee took offense at the cross in the newly formed national park, and the matter has bounced back and forth between the courts and congress ever since. In the meantime, so as not to offend further, our Park Service has installed a wooden box to cover the cross. This is a continuing saga as the box has been sawn off, burned off, painted with alternative religious symbols, etc.
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It is unfortunate that we cannot just allow the original sentiment of a memorial be, but instead we get threatened by the religiosity of the symbol.
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In the Mid Hills Campground, I am one of three campers, and we are well-dispersed throughout the campground.
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| Wednesday, May 28th. | Literature Cited: Other Articles: Black Canyon Road: at Holliman Well Locations: Holliman Well. |
In the burned area of Round Valley, e.g., around Holiman Well, the Apricot Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) has filled in the areas formerly occupied by Sagebrush.
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Today, I started at my Pinto Mountain plot. There was one Swertia albomarginata in bloom, outside the plot.
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The Cliff Rose at Pinto Mountain is not coming back. That's too bad, as that was one location where Cliff Rose was easy to find. There was lots of Sandwort (Eremogene, formerly Arenaria) in bloom at Pinto Mountain and at Wild Horse Mesa, along with Eaton's Fire Cracker (Penstemon eatonii) and Dalea searlsii.
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I looked for the little Portulaca family plant down where I park my car, but was unable to find any.
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 Road to Winkler's Cabin, three years post fire 
Road to Winkler's Cabin, three years post fire 
Calochortus kennedyi on north face of Wild Horse Mesa
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Then I drove to the Wild Horse Mesa plot. I can't actually drive all the way there. But I was able to drive with to camper to my usual parking spot. From there the walk is about 20 minutes up the hill to my plot. Along the way I saw lots of Calochortus in bloom. The single Single-Leaved Ash is coming back from the fire, as are the Oaks in the creekbed.
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I drove into Opal Wash for lunch. The road continues to deteriorate with lack of traffic.
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Back out at my burned plot, there are far fewer plants growing than the first year after the fire. I think this is because there was a good rainfall immediately after the fire, but it's been generally dry sense.
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There were very few Verbena gooddingi. I have assumed it is a perennial, and it is so litsted in the Jepson manual, but there are far fewer of them in this plot than immediately after the fire.
| |  View across Wild Horse Canyon Other Articles: Wild Horse Canyon Road: 49000 | I
have seen some collections made in Wild Horse Canyon, that gave an ecological association of "Joshua tree woodland." However, I don't think I have ever seen Joshua trees in Wild Horse Canyon. I contacted the collector who was quite certain that there were Joshua trees in the area, but that they were not recovering well from the 2005 Hackberry Complex fire. So I went to the location of the collections, as given in geographic coordinates, and searched for Joshua trees. The location is shown in the photograph at left. I searched both sides of the road, across the wash and up on the benches on either side of the wash. I did not find Joshua trees. I did find burned stumps and sprouts of Banana Yucca (Yucca baccata) and Mohave Yucca (Y. schidigera), but not Joshua trees (Y. brevifolia). I'm not saying the Joshua trees aren't there. I'm just saying that I could not find them.
| You might wonder, of course, what difference does it make? In my observation, Joshua trees occur on the northwest side of the Mid Hills ridge. They also are found on the ridge line. However, Joshua trees are not found on the southeast side of the Mid Hills ridge, until one reaches the higher elevations of Pinto Valley. I want to hypothesize that the Mid Hills ridge creates a small orographic precipation increase on the side from which winter storms come, the northwest side. The ridge also casts a small rain shadow on the lee side, the southeast side. The orographic effect and rain shadow are enough to affect Joshua tree distribution in this area. If there are Joshua trees in Wild Horse Canyon, then they provide a counter-example to my hypothesis. |
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In the eastern Mojave, my little plants are OK, a few more deaths than births, but no plants were flowering in my study areas. I did see one in bloom just outside my study area (#7). The study area that burned in 2005 seems to have fewer and fewer plants each year. Maybe that is because it rained a lot right after the fire, and since then it hasn't rained so much. There were a lot of Calochortus (Mariposa Lily, #8) in bloom on Wild Horse Mesa.
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| Thursday, May 29th |
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As I was leaving the Mid Hills, the weight of my laptop and my "office" bag were making contact in the passenger seat sensor. Then the passenger seat belt light and alarm would sound. Until, I hit another bump and the reduced pressure would silence the alarm, then set if off again as we hit bottom of the bump. Really annoying! When I get home, I'm going to rig some was to disable (temporarily) the passenger seat alarm.
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At Goffs, the General Store and gas station are closed. |
|  The
Needles from Topock, Arizona Other Articles: U. S. Interstate 40: near Colorado R. Locations: The Needles. |
| |  View of Mohave Valley to the southwest Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: 30250
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View southeast to Mohave Valley and Needles.
| |  Boundary Cone along Old US Highway 66 Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: near Oatman Locations: Boundary Cone.
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Boundary Cone ahead on Old US Highway 66. |
|  Teddy-Bear Cholla (Opuntia bigelovii) near Boundary Cone
Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: 30600
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Teddy-Bear Cholla (Opuntia bigelovii) is found at several places along Old US Highway 66.
| |  Burro near Oatman, Arizona Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: near Oatman |
| |  Main street of Oatman, Arizona. Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: in Oatman Locations: Oatman. |
Oatman was kind of cute, maybe like a junior Virginia City. Burros in town are protected, so they wander the streets unmolested (#6). Outside of town they get rounded up and shot by the BLM.
| |  Goldroad Mine Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: at Goldroad Mine Locations: Goldroad Mine. |
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 Old
US Highway 66 Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: above Goldroad Mine
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| |  View east from Sitgreaves Pass Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: at Sitgreaves Pass Locations: Sitgreaves Pass.
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 Beargrass (Nolina) along Old Highway 66
Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: along Old US Hwy 66
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| | Literature Cited: Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: in the Hualapai Mtns Locations: Hualapai Mountains. |
Tonight I am staying at Hualapai Mountain Park. This is a Mohave county Park, and has cabins, camping, picnic areas, and several reservable recreation areas.
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| Friday, May 30th
| Literature Cited: Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: in the Hualapai Mtns Locations: Hualapai Mountains. |
Today I traveled from Hualapai Mountain Park near Kingman Arizona to the Grand Canyon.
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The sun came up and entered the camper about 6:08 AM this morning. I remember as it shown directly into my eyes. I got up and did my usual consitutionals. I re-arranged the truck cab a little bit, spreading out the presses to a single layer but four presses across. This makes more room for other stuff.
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 Hualapai Mountain from Old US Highway 66 Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: near Walapai Locations: Hualapai Mountains.
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Returning to Kingman from Hualapai Mountain Park, I gassed up in town, and then headed out of town on the old route 66. The beginning part of the drive crosses Hualapai Valley, a broad fairly flat valley. I'm not sure where, or whether, Hualapai Vallry drains.
| |  Buck and Doe Road from US Highway 66 Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: in the Music Mtns U. S. Highway 66: at IRR 1
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Then the old highway climbs a valley past Valentine before topping out on a plateau. At the east end of this plateau is Peach Springs. I saw Buck and Doe Road, and took photos, but did not travel out onto it.
| |  Downtown Peach Springs Other Articles: U. S. Highway 66: Peach Springs Locations: Peach Springs. |
Peach Springs is a post office, a market, a motel and restaurant, and some tribal offices.
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The highway climbs over a small divide, and then along the Aubrey Cliffs. After rounding the corner of the Aubrey Cliffs, one comes to Seligman, all done up in historic Route 66 regalia and miscellaneous kitsch. Lots of tourists and tour busses here. I got on I-40 at Seligman, stopped at Ash Fork to pee, and then went on to Williams.
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Cruised the old town of Williams, and then went out to the highway to get gas.
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The road north from Williams to Grand Canyon mostly traverses a high rolling plateau with little of interest, right up to the edge of the chasm itself.
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The Grand Canyon was very nice weather-wise, temperatures in the 70s, but full of tourists as you might imagine.
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The condors were there also; I saw four roosting on the cliffs, and several more in flight.
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I stopped to take a photograph of the El Tovar Hotel (#2) because Alice Eastwood collected Swertia albomarginata there in 1913. Now the hotel is surrounded by lawn and tourist-encrusted sidewalks.
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 Grand Canyon Railroad. 
El Tovar Hotel at Grand Canyon Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: by Alice Eastwood
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Miss Eastwood probably arrived on the Santa Fe Railroad from the main line at Williams, Arizona. Today, that branch line is operated as the Grand Canyon Railroad. They were running two trains, one pulled by a 2-8-0 steam engine (#3), and the other by a diesel. I watched the steam engine depart, and then made my way to other vistas.
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Rowe Well entrance to Grand Canyon National Park Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: at Rowes Well Locations: Rowes Well.
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I also tried to visit Rowe's Well, a nearby place, where someone else collected Swertia albomarginata in 1938. However, now the site looks to be privately owned, and well locked up. I had a nice drive in the woods, with some nice short walks, but I couldn't find my little plant.
| |  Locked Gate
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However, while reviewing maps after my return home, I discovered that I was never at Rowe's Well, but at another location several miles south of Rowe's Well.
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| Saturday, May 31st. |  San
Francisco Peaks from US Highway 180. Other Articles: US Highway 180: 080000 | View of San Francisco Peaks from US Highway 180
| |  Oak
Creek Canyon from Overlook Other Articles: Arizona Highway Alternate-89: 20000 Locations: Oak Creek Canyon. |
View of Oak Creek Canyon from the Overlook.
| |  Swertia albomarginata habitat in Oak Creek Canyon … but, no Swertia albomarginata
Other Articles: Arizona Highway Alternate-89: 30500 Swertia albomarginata: in Oak Ck Cyn
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No Swertia albomarginata here. |
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Benson Arizona, a town that exists because it's where the Southern Pacific crossed the San Pedro River in the 1880's. Benson was the name of the first railroad agent in town. Down river a few miles is St. David, the first white settlement in this area, settled by a contingent of Mormon farmers sent from Salt Lake City.
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I'm ensconced in this garden spot after a day's drive from the Grand Canyon, by way of Oak Creek Canyon (#1) and Sedona (to look for Swertia albomarginata) and by way of Phoenix, because there was no way to get here without going through the 60 miles (100 km) of that sprawling metropolis.
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| Sunday, June 1st. |  Johnson Mine and Little Dragoon Mountains Other Articles: North Johnson Road: 29800 Swertia albomarginata: in southeastern Arizona | Left
Benson this morning, headed east up I-10 for Dragoon Summit, and the former town of Johnson. On the way I detoured through Dragoon in time to see a westbound freight. Found the Amerind Museum, recommended by Pat P., but the hour was 800 AM and the sign gave the hours as 10 to 4, closed Mondays. Would like to have seen it, as the restaurant cashier also recommended it. Headed north to Johnson but, here, I ran into locked gates at all three roads north from I-10. The Johnson Mine, which appeared to be in the middle of my route to the Little Dragoon Mountains, was locked up tight, and not a soul in sight. Maybe on a weekday I could have obtained permission to pass through, but not today. The mountains above the mine appeared to be Pinyons and Junipers on limestone, the right environment for Swertia albomarginata.
| |  Looking south toward Benson from Cascabel Road
Other Articles: North Cascabel Road: 70000
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So Plan B was to go back to Benson, and go north up Pomerene and Cascabel Roads. "Cascabel" is Spanish for "rattlesnake." I and then turned east on 3 Links Road, headed for the 3 Links Ranch, trying to find another location. At the little pass there was limestone and a *few* Junipers, so I did the routine of stopping every 1/2 mile and walking a little figure 8 path on both sides of the road. Found lots of interesting stuff, but not my little plants.
| |  Intersection of Cascabel and Three Links Roads
Other Articles: North Cascabel Road: at 3 Links Rd | Intersection of Cascabel Road and Three Links Road.
| |  Vegetation at summit of 3 Links Road Other Articles: Three Links Road: near summit Swertia albomarginata: at Hookers Hot Springs |
Vegetation at summit of 3 Links Road. |
|  Vegetation at summit of 3 Links Road Other Articles: Three Links Road: near summit Swertia albomarginata: at Hookers Hot Springs |
| |  Truck speeds along 3 Links Road. Other Articles: Three Links Road: 45000 Swertia albomarginata: at Hookers Hot Springs |
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Highway 191 north from US I-10. Other Articles: US Highway 191: 85000 |
About Noon, I marked it off as another Snipe Hunt and went on to Willcox, then north to Safford, then northeast to Clifton and Morenci, a huge copper mine still in operation.
| |  Morenci Copper mine from the south. Other Articles: US Highway 191: 79890
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View of Clifton-Morenci mines from the south.
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 Railyard in Clifton Other Articles: US Highway 191: in Clifton
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View of rail yard in Clifton. |
|  Small tank locomotive on display in Clifton Other Articles: US Highway 191: in Clifton |
Locomotive on display in Clifton. |
|  Main street in Clifton. Other Articles: US Highway 191: Clifton Locations: Clifton. | Main street in Clifton. |
|  Catholic church in Clifton Other Articles: US Highway 191: in Clifton | Catholic church in Clifton. |
|  US
Highway 191 between Clifton and Morenci Other Articles: US Highway 191: between Clifton and Morenci |
Highway between Clifton and Morenci. |
|  Copper mill along US Highway 191 Other Articles: US Highway 191: above Morenci | Copper mill above Morenci. |
|  Open pit at Morenci Copper Mine 
Open pit at Morenci Copper Mine Other Articles: US Highway 191: 79750
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Watched the shovels and huge mine trucks (#1) for while I ate a sandwich and then set off north on US Hwy 191.
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This is the highway that used to be Highway 666. Of course, someone took offense at having a highway numbered the Number of the Beast, so our Federal government split it up into Highways 191 and 491. Today's portion of Highway 191 was a long slow drive through the mountains. The road was high enough for there to be small patches of snow along the road. I think this area is called the Mogollon Rim, which is the southwest edge of the Colorado Plateau.
| |  Four Bar Mesa Other Articles: US Highway 191: near Four Bar Mesa Locations: Four Bar Mesa. |
View of Four Bar Mesa to the north. |
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Settled for the night at a very nice, little USFS campground called Hannagan Meadow (#2). This looks to be a recreation site for hikers, riders, and cross-country skiing in the winter.
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| Monday, June 2nd. |  Hannagan Meadow Other Articles: US Highway 191: Hannagan Meadow Locations: Hannagan Meadow. |
This morning I left Hannagan Meadow, and headed north, going through Alpine, Springerville, and St. Johns before arriving at Petrified Forest National Park. There are a few collections of Swertia albomarginata from here. Again I did the Figure 8 Snipe Hunt Routine every half mile, or anythere that looked possible. No Snipe. Asked a Ranger, but learned that they have Law Enforcement Rangers here, not Interpretive Rangers or (heaven forbid!) a biologist on staff. Their volunteer "wildflower lady" had a nice poster in the Museum, but not with my little plant. This little guy was the prettiest thing I found (#3). Had a nice lunch, though, overlooking the Painted Desert.
| |  Plaque for the Clifton-Springerville Highway. Other Articles: US Highway 191: near Hannagan Mdw |
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|  View southeast toward Alpine. Other Articles: US Highway 191: near Alpine | After having passed through Alpine I stopped for this photo looking back southeast toward the town.
| |  Countryside west of Alpine, Arizona Other Articles: US Highway 191: near Alpine |
Looking the other way is this fine pastoral view.
| |  Countryside northwest of Springerville. Other Articles: US Highway 191: northwest of Springerville
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View of Springerville from rest stop to the northwest of town.
| |  Little Colorado River Other Articles: US Highway 180: near Little Colorado River |
Stopped for a look at the Little Colorado River.
| |  South entrance of Petrified Forest National Park.
Other Articles: Petrified Forest Road: near S. Entrance Visitor Ctr Swertia albomarginata: at Petrified Forest Natl Pk |
South entrance visitor center. |
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baby! … want to date? Other Articles: Petrified Forest Road: near south entrance Swertia albomarginata: at Petrified Forest Natl Pk
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Collared lizard in breeding plumage. This was his rock, and he wasn't going to leave it, even for me.
| |  Lake beds near south entrance. Other Articles: Petrified Forest Road: near south entrance Swertia albomarginata: at Petrified Forest Natl Pk |
| |  Higher area with a few junipers Other Articles: Petrified Forest Road: in middle of park Swertia albomarginata: at Petrified Forest Natl Pk |
Stopped in an area with a few junipers to lookf or Swertia albomarginata.
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 Painted Desert at north end of Petrified Forest National Park.
Other Articles: Petrified Forest Road: 15000
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After lunch I headed east, and north, then west, and north, then east, and north, then west, and ... well you get the idea ... through Ganado where I stopped for a short time at the Hubbell Trading Post National Monument. Lot of stuff for sale, and very squeeky floors. Then on to Chinle, where I plan to settle for the night.
| |  Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site Other Articles: US Highway 191: near Ganado |
| |  View of Canyon de Chelly from the south rim.
Locations: Canyon de Chelly. |
Arriving at Chinle in late afternoon, I drove the south rim road of Canyon de Chelly, stopping at every overlook to look down into the canyon. At first the canyon did not seem so deep. But, the last overlook I did, Sliding House Overlook (#4), was signed as being a 700 foot sheer cliff.
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Back in Chinle, I tried to enter my room at the Best (or Worst) Western, and discovered that my room key would not work. Went back to the office and requested a functional key, went back to "my" room and surprised a guy sound asleep with the TV on. Realizing that I should have asked for a functional key for vacant room, I went back to the office, made the request, and received such an assignment.
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For dinner I went to the local cafe, and ordered the house special, the Mutton Stew. Years ago when staying at the Hopi Cultural Center, I ordered this delicacy and received a bowl of warm water, a lamb chunk, 6 or so garbanzo beans, and a couple of slices of potato. This was accompanied by a whole baked chile wrapped in aluminum foil.
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However, the Navajo version of Mutton Stew seems to have a little more substance, as it was an overflowing bowl of chunks of lamb, celery, potato and carrot. I think I may have found a snippet of onion, but that's debatable. No food is served with a knife so the chunks must be gnawed off, or eaten one chunk at a time. The flavor was not bad, it was just really bland. When no one was looking, I added a tiny bit of salt which helped immensely. Maybe next time, I'll bring my own garlic. The stew was served with choice of fry bread or Navajo tortilla. I learned that a Navajo tortilla is fry bread that has been grilled instead of deep fat fried. In deference to my cardiologist I went with the Navajo tortilla. It was a lot of food, and I observed no skinny people of any ethnic origin in the place.
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| Tuesday, June 3rd |
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The motel where I'm staying is workman's motel, so all the workmen were out early, clanging their tools, revving their engines, and testing their backup alarms (they all worked). I got up and went to the restaurant and discovered it wouldn't open for another half hour. Now I knew why the workmen got up, loaded their trucks, and went out to get gas for the day. I decided to emulate a working man, and took my truck down to the Gas'n'Go (per the Robert Earle Keen song), to get gas and check my tires. Getting gas was OK, but the pressure generated by the air machine turned out to be less than the pressure in my tires (45 psi is the target pressure). Consequently, my tires had less air than when I started. The next station, the Conoco/Giant had an "Out of Service" air machine, a good idea but short on execution, and the last gas station in the lineup did not even bother with the pretense of having air for its customers.
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This is not why I carry a little air compressor, but it turned out to be a good thing to have. So I went back to the motel, parked in the line of workmen's trucks waiting for the restaurant to open, got out my little air compressor, and proceeded to pump up my tires. This created a small stir, and a little attention from the workmen, but a good time was had by all.
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Leaving Chinle, I headed north through some wide open country with a shack and a hogan now and then, then over to Four Corners. I took a photo for a family. and they offered to take one of me, but I declined. Somehow, though, my camera had a photo of this dorky lookin' dude, standing mostly in Colorado with a small toehold in Utah (#5).
| |  Area of Teec Nos Pos, Arizona Other Articles: US Highway 160: near TeecNosPos | | |  Mostly in Colorado … with a small toehold in Utah.
Other Articles: US Highway 160: near Four Corners Locations: Four Corners. |
| |  Four Corners Monument Navajo Tribal Park Other Articles: US Highway 160: near Four Corners Locations: Four Corners.
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 Montezuma Valley, south of Towaoc, Ute Mountain Indian Reservation
Other Articles: US Highway 160: south of Towaoc
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Montezuma Valley south of Towaoc. |
|  Mancos Valley view from Mesa Verde
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Onward to Mesa Verde National Park, from which the view of Mancos Valley with the San Juan Mountains in the distance was very pretty.
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The park botanist admitted she had seen Swertia albomarginata in the park, but would not tell me where, and would have to accompany me there anyway, and she could not do that today. Eventually it came out that Weatherill Mesa was the place. Well, that was about an hour and a half drive in and more time to get out, so I decided to tuck my little nugget of information away for another trip. Besides, I told Cheryl that I would save (good) places for her to go with me. One place we haven't been in Mesa Verde is Weatherill Mesa, which has good tours of cliff dwellings in addition to ... you know what.
| |  Pleasant View, Colorado Locations: Pleasant View.
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From Mesa Verde back to Cortez, Colorado, and then northeast to a town now called Pleasant View, but used to be called Ackmen. Someone collected Swertia albomarginata 8 miles west of Ackmen. This is very close to the Lowry Ruin. I think Lowry was a famous archeologist with the University of Chicago and his team excavated many sites in this area during the 1920s and 1930s.
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 Interpretive sign at Lowry Ruin. Other Articles: Montezuma County Road CC: at Road 7.25 Locations: Lowry Pueblo Ruins.
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I examined the Lowry Ruin, and found it to be very interesting. There are two kivas you can enter.
| |  Montezuma County Road CC crosses Cow Canyon west of Lowry Ruin
Other Articles: Montezuma County Road CC: near Lowry Ruin
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 Prime Swertia albomarginata habitat in road cut.
Other Articles: Montezuma County Road CC: near Lowry Ruin Swertia albomarginata: near Lowry Ruin
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I went a little further down the road and found Swertia albomarginata in the cut bank of this road (#7). Not anywhere else, just in the cut bank area of the road, in very poor, almost ashy soil.
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I made no collection here, but the location is approximately 9 miles west of Pleasant View, Colorado, on Montezuma County Road CC, just past Road 7.25 that goes to Lowry Ruin, 37.58825N, 108.91966W.
| |  View northeast of Pleasant View. Other Articles: Montezuma County Road CC: at Cty Rd 10 Montezuma County Road 10: at CR CC Swertia albomarginata: just west of Lowry Ruin, Colorado
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| |  View south of Little Ruin Canyon Locations: Hovenweep National Monument. Hovenweep National Monument. |
From there I followed a minor road to Hovenweep National Park. The walking tour was about two miles, and quite interesting (#8). But the park has little biting midges that swarm all around you, and the bites leave a welt in a red area. Hurts, and very ugly. I discovered they didn't like sunscreen, so I slathered that all over, but they were getting in my eyes, my ears, anywhere that didn't have sunscreen. I've run into these once in Mojave National Preserve. Anyway, the midges are not active after dark, so most of the campers, including me, were in their tents, cars, or campers until the sun went down.
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| Wednesday, June 4th |  Canyon near Alkali Creek. Other Articles: Hovenweep Road: near Alkali Creek |
This morning, I left Hovenweep early, chased out by the biting midges. From there west to White Mesa and north to Blanding, Utah, I did the Figure 8 Snipe Hunt Routine, wherever the area looked like it could be Swertia albomarginata habitat, as there are several collections from this area. Found neither Swertia albomarginata nor Snipe.
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I stopped in Blanding for gas and groceries. I need ice for the icebox every day when it is hot, like in the 90s, and less often if it is cooler. There was a marked absence of beer in the market. When I asked the grocery clerk, she said Blanding was a dry town. But at the Gas'n'Go three miles south of town, they sell beer. It was on my way, so I stopped there, and bought a six-pack of Wagging Tale Ale. I thought I would be ready to give a report on its quality, but since I'm not camping tonite, the report will have to wait for another time.
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Then headed east toward Lake Powell. The road passed by Natural Bridges National Park, but I am saving that for another trip. My objective, if a retired person can be seriously thought of as having an objective, was another collection made at the Sunrise Trailhead into the Dark Hollow Wilderness near Squaw and Papoose Rock (#9). Getting into the vicinity was about 12 miles of dirt roads under threatening skies. I made a few wrong turns, corrected myself, and found Swertia albomarginata growing in the middle of a clump of cactus alongside the road (#10).
| |  Comb Creek from Highway 95 Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: near Comb Ridge | | |  Monocline west of Comb Ridge Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: near Comb Ridge | Comb Ridge |
|  Commerative sign about Battle of Paiute Pass Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: 59998
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Battle of Paiute Pass. |
|  View northwest (down) White Canyon Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: in White Canyon, UT |
View down White Canyon to the northwest. |
|  Which way to go? Junction of Fortknocker Canyon and Jacks Loop Roads
Map showing collections of Swertia albomarginata near Squaw and Papoose Rock
Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: at the Sundance Trailhead Utah Highway 95: along White Canyon Fortknocker Canyon Road: at Jacks Loop Rd | Just
north of the bridge over White Canyon, I turned off of Utah Highway 95 to the east. The DeLorme atlas identifies this as Horse Tanks Road. Later, I would learn that this is White Canyon North Road.
| White Canyon North Road winds around a bit, then drops over a small ridge to join with Fortknocker Canyon Road. I stayed on Fortknocker Canyon Road headed to the southeast, until I came to another fork in the road. Most of the roads out here are numbered, with black letters on a white Carsonite posts. For example, the road in the photo at left was Road 2641. These are county unique road numbers. So far, the only place I have seen these numbers is in the Streets data from the Utah State Geographic Information Database (SGID). By accident I detoured on Jacks Loop Road (B2641). Here I had lunch while I watched the weather deteriorate. After lunch, I continued on around Jacks Loop where I joined Wooden Shoe Road, although at the time I thought it was Squaw Rock Road. It seemed to be heading toward Squaw and Papoose Rock, so I stayed on it until I saw Swertia albommarginata along the road. |  Squaw and Papoose Rock from the southwest. Other Articles: Wooden Shoe Road: near Squaw and Papoose Rock Locations: Squaw and Papoose Rock. | View of Squaw and Papoose Rock from the southwest.
| |  Swertia albomarginata near Squaw and Papoose Rock.
Swertia albomarginata habitat near Squaw and Papoose Rock.
Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: near Squaw and Papoose Rock 532 | #532 37.83810N, 110.20411W, 11 miles from Utah Highway 24 by way of Road 2081 and Road 256, near the turnoff to the Sunrise Trailhead.
| |  Squaw and Papoose Rock from the northeast Other Articles: Wooden Shoe Road: near Squaw and Papoose Rock Locations: Squaw and Papoose Rock. | View of Squaw and Papoose Rock from northeast.
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This would be a new locality for the plant, as the previous collections were made a few miles further on. Of course, as you might expect, it started to rain just as I found the little plants. In my head is the possibility of 12 miles of wet, sticky red roads back to the highway. Fortunately, the rain held off enough, so that my windshield wipers were on intermittent, while the truck was still raising dust from the road.
| | Locations: Colorado River.
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From there, I crossed the Colorado River at Hite. The river is just entering Lake Powell here, but you can see the "bathtub ring" of the highwater mark that must be 50 to 80 feet higher that the lake surface now.
| |  Colorado River just below the Hite bridge. Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: near Hite Bridge |
| |  Hite Bridge Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: near Hite
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Crossed the Hite Bridge, and then stopped on the north side for this photo.
| |  Hite Bridge from highway overlook. Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: at viewpoint across from Hite
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| |  Hite from highway overlook. Other Articles: Utah Highway 95: near Hite | | |
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From Hite the road goes to Hanksville. I was thinking of staying at an RV Park in Hanksville, or maybe Goblin Valley State Park. However, the skies were very dark, the sand was blowing over the road. I decided to head for Green River, and a motel. Good idea, as lightning was striking Beckwith Plateau as I went by, and it started to rain just as I was unloading the truck. It rained hard for about an hour and a half, and I can still hear the thunder out there. I'm sure glad I'm not out there in the wind, dust, and rain. And, the Wagging Tale Ale can wait.
| |  Small butte highlighted by sun through storm clouds.
Other Articles: Utah Highway 24: 18000
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| |  Tilted sediments at southeastern edge of San Rafael Swell
Other Articles: Utah Highway 24: along UT Hwy 24 Locations: San Rafael Swell. |
Tilted sediments on southeastern edge of San Rafael Swell in a rain storm.
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Tomorrow, my plans were to go north on US Hwy 6, making stops at Beckwith Plateau (dirt road), Mounds (dirt road), Miller Canyon (dirt road) and end at Scofield Reservoir (paved road). The forecast is for continued storms in the morning, but clearing in the afternoon. I'll just have to see how the roads are in the morning.
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| Thursday, June 5th |
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It was still raining in the morning, but the forecast was for clearing skies after Noon. After breakfast, I stayed in my room, doing whatever paperwork or computer work would occur to me. That filled about a half hour, and it was still raining lightly. I was looking at the weather data, and Hanksville got 0.18 inch of rain, and Price got 0.40 inch of rain.
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Across the street is the John Wesley Powell Museum. This Powell was the first recorded person to have followed the Green and Colorado River from Green River, Wyoming, through the Grand Canyon, to the Virgin River in Nevada. They had a nice video, some pretty good displays, and some of the old boats that people took through the canyon. There was also a River Runner's Hall of Fame showing various people whose innovations made travel through the river easier or safer.
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Having stretched out the museum to the maximum, I went to the Gas'n'Go for some gas, then headed north on US Hwy 6 for Price. Beckwith Plateau was still under a few clouds as I went by (#1). The rain had stopped by this time, and there were patches of sun. Along the way I stopped briefly to test one dirt road. Parts of it were OK, but there were long stretches of mud. At Woodside was the turnoff for Beckwith Plateau. Somone else had already traversed that road and made a mess of it, so I decided that it would have to be saved for another trip.
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 Beckwith Plateau as seen from the south, near Green River, Utah
Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: just north of I-70
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Just after starting up US Highway 6 from Interstate 70, I stopped at a small rise for some photography.
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Rafael Swell, southeast edge, in the morning sun. Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: near Interstate 70 Locations: San Rafael Swell.
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View of the southeast edge of the San Rafael Swell.
| |  Green River Cut-Off Road Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: at EM401 | Stopped to look at the Green River Cut-Off (EM401). Even drove a little bit of it that was gravelled. As soon as the gravel ran out, though, the road was too muddy for me to continue. In the distance you can see the top of Cedar Mountain, where I will be tomorrow.
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In the eastern Mojave the roads are mostly made of granite sands, or of limestone gravel. They tend not to get muddy with just the little bit of rain that fell last night. In this part of Utah, though, the roads have major portions made of clay and coal that make a sticky, gooey mess when wet.
| |  Profile of Beckwith Plateau seen from Woodside, Utah
Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: in Woodside
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Continued north towards Mounds. I got to one turnoff, and was scared off by the Impassible During Storm sign. The second turnoff was blocked by construction equipment as another lane is being added to this part of US Highway 6. The map showed another little road heading back toward Mounds from Wellington. While I was checking it out, someone blew by in a little Toyota, or a Honda, and went speeding down that road. I followed. Had to traverse a few muddy areas, but eventually arrived at Mounds. Mounds is not a place where Swertia albomarginata occurs. It is open grassland. To be fair, Marcus E. Jones' description for his collection location was "near Mounds." He didn't day how near. Across the tracks were some Junipers, so I drove over there, across the muddy top of a small earthen dam, to see what I could find. The habitat just did not look right over here, just too much grass (#2). Returned back across the dam, then back to the highway, and on to Price.
| |  Wellington, Utah, from the east. Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: near Wellington | View of Wellington, Utah, from beside US Highway 6.
| |  Mounds, Utah, on the Union Pacific Railroad.
Locations: Mounds. | View of Mounds station on the Union Pacific Railroad.
| |  General view of Mounds, Utah Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: near Mounds Locations: Mounds. | General view of Mounds. The Mounds station on the Union Pacific is at the railroad in the middle ground.
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In Price I had lunch in the main city park. Adjacent to the park was the city pool with one of those wave making machines. The machine makes a very low frequency heavy vibration that I was not aware of at first, but after a while it gets very irritating.
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From Price I drove up the canyon past Helper and then turned on the highway to Scofield. My objective here was another Marcus E. Jones collection, this one in "Miller Canyon." I found Miller Canyon, but it was locked tight. The habitat doesn't look right either. It's up in the higher elevations where sagebrush gives was to aspens.
| |  Coming into Helper, Utah, on US Highway 6 Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: at south side of Helper Locations: Helper.
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| |  North end of Scofield Reservoir. Other Articles: UT Highway 96: north of Scofield Reservoir Locations: Scofield Reservoir.
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Entering Helper on US Highway 6. |
| North end of Scofield Reservoir. Other Articles: UT Highway 96: north of Scofield Reservoir Locations: Scofield Reservoir.
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| |  Interpretive Display in Scofield Other Articles: UT Highway 96: in Scofield Locations: Scofield. | |
|  Interpretive Display about the Winter Quarters Mine Disaster
Other Articles: UT Highway 96: near Scofield
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 Scofield Cemetary Other Articles: UT Highway 96: in Scofield
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Scofield Cemetary across town. |
|  Entrance to Miller Canyon. Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: near Scofield Res. UT Highway 96: at Long Canyon Road Locations: Miller Canyon.
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This makes four Marcus E. Jones collections that have something unusual (suspect?) about the location; the collections at Mounds and Scofield, a collection said to be from near Parker, AZ, and one from northern Elko County, Nevada. I think I need to do some more research on where Jones collected, by putting together the series of collections made on adjacent dates.
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Regardless, I continued into the semi-ghost town of Scofield. It's pretty ramshackle, with a new or nicely cared-for house here and there. I found the memorial plaques for the Winter Quarters mine disaster that Utah Philips talked and sang about on his CD with Ani DiFranco. Then I returned back down the canyon to Helper.
| |  Main Street, Helper, Utah Other Articles: U. S. Highway 6: at Helper Locations: Helper. | In
Helper (#3), a long-time coal mining and railroad town, is the Western Railroad and Mining Museum. It occupies four stories, well actually three stories and the basement of an old hotel in Helper. There are also numerous pieces of mining equipment on display outside the building. This is a privately-funded museum, but it's one of the better ones, for the extensive collections.
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After leaving Helper, it was time to find a place to stay for the night. I settled at Huntington Reservoir State Park, a nicely kept campground, picnic ground, boat ramp, and swimming beach. I only did the camping part, no swimming as it was very windy, and quite cool.
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| Friday June 6th
|  View across Huntington Reservoir in the early morning.
Other Articles: Utah Highway 10: north of Huntington Locations: Huntington Lake. |
This morning was clear and calm. Across the Huntington Reservoir was a pretty view with a coal-fired power plant (#4); another reminder that central Utah is coal country, something that the local talk station, KOAL, won't let you forget.
| |  View west off of Cedar Mountain. Other Articles: EM-206: on Cedar Mountain Locations: San Rafael Swell. |
After leaving Huntington Reservoir, I headed straight east for a place called Cedar Mesa. Cedar Mesa is also west of there I was yesterday, so I am kind of zig-zagging through this area called the San Rafael Swell. Drove 18 miles to the top of the mesa, collecting beautiful views, but nothing else. On the way back down, though, I spied some likely Swertia albomarginata habitat, and sure enough there it was.
| | Literature Cited: Other Articles: EM-206: at Overlook Locations: Point of Cedar Mountain. San Rafael Swell.
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View from Overlook. |
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 Beckwith Plateau from Cedar Mountain Overlook Other Articles: EM-206: at Cedar Mountain Overlook Locations: Beckwith Plateau.
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View of Beckwith Plateau to the southeast from Cedar Mountain Overlook.
| | Literature Cited: | This
is a new collection locality in my list of places where S. a. is found. While I was at it, I collected other plants growing with the S. a., Streptanthus (Jewel Flower), Draba (just Draba, no common name), Penstemon, Ipomopsis (Skyrocket), an Oenothera (Evening Primrose) and a couple of composites.
| |  Swertia albomarginata habitat. Other Articles: EM-206: on Cedar Mountain |
| |  Up
the road from the Swertia albomarginata locality.
Other Articles: EM-206: near Wimmer Flat |
| |  Swertia albomarginata on Cedar Mountain
Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: on Cedar Mountain EM-206: near the south end of Wimmer Flat | Habitat south of the road. There is a Swertia albomarginata growing in the road berm in center foreground.
| |  Swertia albomarginata on Cedar Mountain
Other Articles: EM-206: near the south end of Wimmer Flat
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Habitat north of the road. |
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 Swertia albomarginata on Cedar Mountain 
Swertia albomarginata on Cedar Mountain
Other Articles: Swertia albomarginata: on Cedar Mountain EM-206: near Wimmer Flat
534 | 534
Swertia albomarginata | |
535 | 535
Yellow Boraginaceae | |
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